Sunday, May 29, 2005

totally bullshit

so the trip to shanghai on saturday was good for a number of reasons. first of all, i headed into one of the rich expat enclaves to drop of my luggage at a friend's house. the place is like american suburbia dropped right into china. kids biking down the streets, moms taking their dogs for a walk... very strange. next i headed to a propaganda poster museum, which is located in the basement of some random housing development. they had some wild stuff, with the one saying that the chinese people support the american blacks in their struggle for civil rights being my favorite. then i went to the shanghai museum, which is, by all accounts, a fine museum of ancient chinese history.

the best part however, was when i was sitting outside the museum waiting to meet up with clark and luke. after being accosted by some chinese students wanted to practice their english, a man with his wife sat down next to me and started talking to me in english as well. this was sort of strange, because he looked rather old, and people that old don't normally speak english, or are willing to use it to talk to people. but then i noticed that he wasn't really that old, he clearly just looked older than he was, and his english was perfect.

he apparently attended the shanghai foreign languages school in the early eighties, then in 1985, after something to do with connections to a japanese journalist and a chinese democratic activist (who is now penciled out of chinese history), he was arrested as a political dissident and held for 11 years. now, he can't get a job anywhere because he has effectively been blacklisted in chinese society.

for the rest of our conversation, he effectively railed on all aspects of chinese society, including the economic reforms, local elections, the press, and education, all of which he called "totally bullshit." i feel like i was really lucky to meet this guy. it's so easy to forget, sitting in the ultra-clean people's square in shanghai surrounded by foreign tourists and ultra-modern skyscrapers, how backwards and utterly screwed up the chinese political system still is. i feel like all of us have been lulled by how fun it is to live here in china, and we forget that the communist party's control has graver consequences than just hilariously stupid english-language newspapers.

clark and luke also ran into a guy in people's square who was drawing portraits. even though he was clearly very poor, his english was very good. he said he read the english newspaper everyday and clearly made up his own mind about what he learned everyday. it seems that the most free- and forward-thinking members of chinese society are either crushed by the government or are the poor and powerless. meanwhile, those getting an education are by and large brainwashed losers, wasting their time playing online games in this dump of an internet bar. i hope i'm just being overly pessimistic about my chinese counterparts.

in shanghai the eye of sauron is always watching:

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